Big view of Seal Rock

Story submitted 4/2/96
by Brian K. Giroux

happy birhday to me!

After 27 years in So Cal, mostly Ventura and San Diego, I decided to do the mountain man thing east of the Sierra Nevada. I'm in Reno now earning a MS in hydrogeology and planning my return to the coast.

My story begins on March 1, 1996. This is the day before my birthday, and I wanted waves more than anything else. I set out for the sunset district to stay with a buddy- the general outline was a mellow nite of beers and conversation, and an early morning in the glass.

I must append the happenings on that Friday nite, but the details include more than a few beers, shots of tequila, funny cigarettes, and yes, a 21 year old Swedish nanny. I was still awake to see the sun poke through the window, and i was out the door as quick as i could write a thank you poem.

I waited on my buddy with a mellow buzz, a protein shake, large cup of coffee and scone. Next stop, Noriega street, Ocean Beach. The waves were just over head and glassy. The sky was robin-egg blue. I was out in the line-up. I stroked around to check it out. About 10 guys were having zen together. A nice steep left was coming straight at me, and only one guy was inside. I thought he was too deep, so I began to stroke into it. He took off, and I pulled back. He surfed it beautifully and I was glad I gave it to him. Ten minutes later, the same wave was coming at me, and the same guy was inside of me. He said, " going right or left?" and I replied "left!". We both took off, and I had a sweet little stoke. The morning went on like that.

Ocean Beach is the closest consistent waves to Reno, only about 3.5 hours. The locals are very cool. An older surfer there told me why: "it is most often a heavy break, with cold waters and big overhead- it's sacred that way, not a place for losers. People are sacred in the temple." Ocean Beach is the first place I check, and I would be honored to be a local.

happy birhtday to me! b out.

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