Story submitted 6/18/96
by Steve Wright firstname.lastname@example.org
One day in April a friend and I paddled out at Rockaway beach in Pacifica. The swell was pusing in from the north and it was building. Wow what a day. There was only about 15 people in the line up and everyone was having a blast. There it was the perfect wave of the day coming right at me. I got in to place and went for it full speed. It had to be the best ride of my life. It was 10' and full of power. After the ride I yelled out my excitment and then turned around only to see that I was caught in the middle of the biggest set of the day.
The first wave of the set took me and pulled me toward the rocks. After it let me go I headed straight for the top only to grab 1 second of air before being pulled 15' to the bottom and keep there forever. When I finally made it through, I was thankful for the wave the ocean gave me to ride but I had to stop and say it is still the ocean that is in control.